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Jewelry archeology. About jewelry in ancient times

2019.02.15
Jewelry archeology. About jewelry in ancient times

Photo by Philippe Fragnière

Don't be bound by preconceived notions and live faithfully to your own aesthetic sense. The series "Seekers of Freedom" touches upon the thoughts of such "Seekers of Freedom" and evokes the power of images that effortlessly transcend the concept of known things and time.

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When did people start wearing accessories such as jewelry and accessories?

And what role did ancient jewelry play? What is the same and what is different from today's accessories?

SIRI SIRI designer Naho Okamoto asked archaeologist Saeko Miyashita to explore the essence of the relationship between people and jewelry by looking at the origins of accessories.

Naho Okamoto|NAHO OKAMOTO

SIRI SIRI representative and designer. Graduated from the Space Design Department of Kuwasawa Design Institute. In 2006, he started the jewelry brand "SIRI SIRI". Making use of her experience in architecture and interior design, she creates jewelry using materials around her, such as glass. Currently researching communication between people and things at a graduate school in Switzerland. http://sirisiri.jp/

Saeko Miyashita|SAEKO MIYASHITA

Joint researcher at the Institute of Iraqi Ancient Culture, Kokushikan University, former researcher at the Ancient Orient Museum. His published works include "Oriental Patterns" and "From A to Z in the British Museum".

life saving amulet

Okamoto: Is the ancient civilization you are researching the oldest human civilization?

Miyashita: Yes. You learn about the four great civilizations at school. They are Egypt, Mesopotamia, India, and China. Cities will be built from these places, and humans will create various things.

When a city is born, many people gather, so many things are organized and hierarchical relationships become strict. Then the high-ranking people start wearing a lot of jewelry to distinguish themselves from others. It is also necessary to attach something that ordinary people cannot make. For example, the gem called lapis lazuli can only be found in Afghanistan, but it was found in Mesopotamia in 3500 BC.

Okamoto: You said that jewels brought from far away became a symbol of wealth and were used as ornaments.

Miyashita: Another role of ornaments was that they had the meaning of amulets = good luck charms. Especially in West Asia, there are many amulets in the shape of animals. For example, sheep and frogs are made with wishes for a rich harvest, and lions are made as a symbol of strength. Archaeologists say that snakes shed their skin, so they were created in hopes of immortality, but in fact, there is no mention of that anywhere (laughs). Because there were no letters at that time.

Okamoto: Even so, amulets were basically worn because they wanted the power of nature, such as animals and plants.

Miyashita: In modern times, science has made it possible to understand why a cold is caused by a virus, but in the past, it was hard to understand. That's why people in the past thought that sudden headaches were caused by being stared at by something bad, or by being hit by a bad wind. And to prevent that, he wore an amulet. That's why the act of wearing an amulet or accessory was life-threatening.

Today, we wear accessories because we want to wear things that are different from others, and I think this is also a fundamental human desire. In the past, however, ornaments were worn out of a more earnest feeling, such as "wanting to protect something" or "wanting to protect something." Some of them have been worn by parents and children for generations.

But in a way, it might be a life-threatening thing for young girls to wear accessories because they want to look cute (laughs).

Okamoto: Depending on how you think about it, it might be a primitive desire to wear a strap on your mobile phone (laughs).

Jewelry as a home

Okamoto: While doing research recently, I read about a tribe in the Amazon that had absolutely nothing to do with other civilizations. When the Brazilian government took care of the last person in the tribe, he refused to wear clothes when he was given clothes because he was a naked tribe. However, when the director of a TV station who came for an interview gave him the beads as a souvenir, he happily accepted them and made his own jewelry to wear.

Until then, I thought it was the other way around. In other words, humans started wearing jewelry after inventing clothes. But that story made me think that maybe jewelry is more primitive than clothes.

Miyashita: From ancient ruins, you can find jewelry that looks like animal fangs with holes, but I think it was made long before fur clothes were made. The oldest pieces of jewelry were made by punching holes in small seashells and are said to be about 100,000 years old.

Okamoto: Before jewelry was used to express social status, it may have had a function like a talisman. SIRI SIRI customers also say that they wore jewelry as a talisman when giving birth, or that SIRI SIRI jewelry helped them when they were in a difficult situation. Every time I hear stories like that, I still feel that jewelry can be a “reliance” for people.

Miyashita: Just like Snoopy's Linus always has a blanket, I guess people want things that have a shape. Especially in modern times, I think that human existence is becoming smaller due to the advancement of civilization. That's why I want something extra to rely on.

Okamoto: Religion used to play that role, but its power may be diminishing with the development of science. Even so, humans still need something to cling to.

Miyashita: In other words, you have to live carefully so that you want something to cling to. Because I can't think so if I live with a clatter. It may be important to have the feeling that you want to cling to something.

create from experience

Okamoto: Before entering graduate school in Switzerland, I studied language in Oxford, England, and the Ashmolean Museum is wonderful. I was immersed in it like every day.

Miyashita: That place is really nice.

Okamoto: At that time, why do people come to see old things? I wondered. I think one of the reasons is that they want to see their origins. What do you think, Mr. Miyashita?

Miyashita: You don't have to think about things that are too difficult. I often tell my students that museums are like amusement parks. Don't try to be smart, just go find what you like and what you think is interesting. Whenever I go to a museum, I always think about what I want (laughs).

Nowadays, you can look up any amount of information on the Internet, but the most important thing is to see the real thing. And if possible, touch the real thing. By doing so, various ideas will be born. That's why it's important to have an experience value based on your own experience. I decided to become a museum curator because I wanted to touch the real thing!

Okamoto: In a university class, I once held a workshop called the "Marshmallow Challenge," in which we used marshmallows and spaghetti to build a tower as tall as possible within a time limit. It seems that there are many teams. They use their hands to practice before making a plan, so they can repeat trial and error in the shortest possible time. I thought that there are some things that can only be created from the empirical values ​​obtained through experiments, rather than calculating on a desk.

Miyashita: From now on, I think that education should be a slow one, in which such experience can be accumulated. And to nurture a rich heart that makes you think "I like it!" when you see something beautiful. That's why it's so important to see different things.

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The history of accessories has taught us how close the relationship between people and things is. And as long as humans are humans, the essence of that relationship will never change.

It may be necessary to rediscover the power of tangible "things" because digital technology has developed and everything is now virtual.

Written by Hiroto Miyamoto

Talk photo Go Itami

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And the 2019 new collection 'EXCAVATION', which will be released on March 1st, is also a piece of jewelry that evokes ancient accessories. A jewelry collection conceived by the designer at a museum in Oxford, England, as if people were searching for the origin of their imagination.

Along with the installation exhibition that allows you to experience the history, we will also hold an exhibition selling new works and standard jewelry. Please come and visit us.

《Exhibition 'EXCAVATION'》

It will be held from 3/1 fri. Learn more here .

《 New release 》

Date: 3/1 fri. Sales start from 13:00

Venue: Exhibition Hall (3/1 –) / SIRI SIRI SHOP (3/6 –) , Online Store (3/1 -)

See the full lineup here .

* 3/1 - 5 SIRI SIRI SHOP will be closed.

At the exhibition, we will also sell standard jewelry, so please come to the exhibition.

Jewelry archeology. About jewelry in ancient times

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